You know, jai-alai is a sport. Roasted chicken, thats a simple thing to do, but its very hard. Even though I hadnt spent a lot of time with my father growing up, in my early 20s I made a reconnection with him and certainly we rekindled our relationship and he was very supportive, even though he didnt understand what I did. And yet you have risen to the highest of stature of culinary greatness. The multiple Michelin-starred chef (The French Laundry, Per Se, Bouchon) spent the past five years . Thomas worked alone with the couple's grandmother as prep cook. And so that was over 400 people I called during that period of time. Best Restaurant in the Americas (French Laundry), Best New Restaurant (Per Se), James Beard Foundation, 2005, Outstanding Restaurant (French Laundry), James Beard Foundation, 2006, Michelin Guide Bay Area, 3 Stars for The French Laundry, 2006 Current, Michelin Guide Bay Area, 1 Star for Bouchon, 2007 Current, Michelin Guide Bay Area, 1 Star for The Surf Club Restaurant, 2022 Current, Gayot Top 40 Restaurants in the US (French Laundry) 2004 2010, Gayot Top 40 Restaurants in the US (Per Se) 2010, Chevalier in the French Legion of Honor, presented by Chef Paul Bocuse on March 29, 2011, in NYC, Lifetime Achievement Award (French Laundry), This page was last edited on 4 March 2023, at 18:37. Twice named Best Restaurant in the World by Restaurant magazine, it was soon joined by other Keller establishments: Bouchon and Ad Hoc in Yountville, and Per Se in New York City. I spent three summers there. Thomas Keller: I began my humble career as a dishwasher. Of course we called the restaurant. Born to a marine drill sergeant and a restaurant manager . Keller served as a consultant on the feature film Spanglish, and in collaboration with restaurant designer Adam D. Tihany, created K + T, a collection of silver hardware and cocktail ware for Christofle Silversmiths. With more than 1.5 million copies of his cookbooks in print, he is the author of six cookbooks, including the recently released,The French Laundry, Per Se. Were dedicated to one another. Everybody became more frugal during that time, as they do always in times of uneasiness and disruption in our economic climate. It creates an anxiety in you actually. The specific details of the recipe do matter. I was unsure of my career. The first time U.S.A. is there, Im standing at the pass in Pauls kitchen, Im standing next to him and Im just telling him how proud I am, how much I love what hes done, how much I love him. Cooking wasnt the question, but could I lead a team better? My saving grace when I moved to Paris was my friend Serge Raoul, who allowed me to stay at his apartment. So at La Rive, which was a beautiful old farm on the side of a small creek, I planted my first garden. I thought, If Im going to do this, I need to do it now. And I went back to Los Angeles. You had your different areas for your knives, your forks, your spoons, things like that. In 1994, Keller closed the deal and set about renovating the facility. So Bill is then taking his expertise and skill to L.A., bought a hotel downtown, renamed it Checkers, and brought in me. The other one was off on his career. How old were you when you received it? I mean that became the catch phrase. Paul Bocuse was a commis at his restaurant. Why was it produced in that part of Italy? It was such a moment for us because we represented our country. So we had to have a commercial bank loan. Theres sous-chefs responsible in pastry in the same way. So that was really the beginning for us of our success in Northern California. One of them was off in the Navy. Theyll pick up Bon Appetit magazine or Gourmet or Saveur or any of the magazines. Youre American. Youve mentioned the value of consistency, but nothing says it like that. It was about that physical activity that was so compelling for me. Thomas Keller: When my parents were married, my father was typically stationed somewhere else. Thomas Keller is a man who needs no introduction. As we continued to evolve with that idea, we realized that the veterans here werent having that kind of experience and so we committed ourselves to doing that. How did you come by that vision? Thomas Keller: La Rive was outside of Catskill. Ren and his wife would come to South Florida in the wintertime because they would close their restaurant, and he was looking for a chef for the following summer and Pierre recommended me, so I moved to Catskill. The Spanglish sandwich", "Chef Thomas Keller on Why Food Isn't The Point Of a Restaurant", "Bay Area flavors food tale: For its new film 'Ratatouille,' Pixar explored our obsession with cuisine", "Thomas Keller - Teaches Cooking Techniques I: Vegetables, Pasta, and Eggs at masterclass.com", "Thomas Keller - Teaches Cooking Techniques II: Meats, Stocks, and Sauces", "Thomas Keller - Teaches Cooking Techniques III: Seafood, Sous Vide, and Desserts", "The James Beard Foundation Awards Presents 1996 Winners", "The 1998 Bon Apptit Awards: Chef of the Year", "The S. Pellegrino 50 Best Restaurants in the World, 2003", "S. Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants, 2004", "S. Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants, 2005", "S. Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants, 2006", "S. Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants, 2007", "S. Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants, 2008", "Winners Announced For 2005 James Beard Foundation Awards", "Chevalier of the French Legion of Honor for Thomas Keller", "American chef Keller to be admitted into French Legion of Honor", "Thomas Keller The S.Pellegrino Lifetime Achievement Award Winner 2012", "Thomas Keller wins Lifetime Achievement Award", "Golden Plate Awardees of the American Academy of Achievement", Google Authors: Thomas Keller: May 19, 2009, 60 Minutes: Inside Thomas Keller's Restaurants: November 20, 2011, 60 Minutes: Visiting the Theater of the Mouth: February 11, 2009, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Thomas_Keller&oldid=1142852191. It began in 1985 when I returned from France. Patience, and perseverance, are a virtue. Of course his son went to school here in the Culinary Institute of America and now lives in America. So we were one of the first restaurants to kind of fail. Then I think thats what makes our culture so strong. The throwback restaurant had been opened in March 2019, and had been his first New York restaurant in 15 years.[19]. Even though I didnt have a father present, I had some great, great women that helped form and focus my childhood. They were of age. We had a choice of getting on an airplane and missing the phone call, because it was going to come at 10:00 in the morning New York time, which was 4:00 in the afternoon in Paris. The trio had hoped that their proximity to a sports arena would provide them with a steady flow of business, but the arenas patrons were not interested in the sophisticated fare he was offering, and the restaurant closed its doors. I got in contact with the owners, Don and Sally Schmitt. And he sat us down right at the first table. And the success of you as an individual is really based on the success of the team. What culinary values and service values did you learn? When Thomas Keller says he's built a better chocolate bar, it's worth tasting the results. Thomas Keller: Well first, thank you very much for that wonderful compliment. I think its discipline. I was a year-and-a-half younger, therefore I had to be set in front of the dishwasher. He loved wine. So that organizational aspect allowed you to be more efficient, which was kind of the second discipline that I learned is efficiency was really, really key in doing things well. And so it just didnt go with our proteins, it went with everything, because every ingredient that we receive in our restaurants or you receive at home as a consumer, somebody has spent part of their life producing that for us, and we have to be respectful of that and make sure that we are able to nourish ourselves with the food that they supply us. I remember she served me on that day. Youre supporting the chef de partie. So he was very proud to be able to talk to our suppliers and get them to either give us extra or to reduce our price. I think that a restaurant like The French Laundry or Taillevent, any of the great restaurants around the world and certainly there are many, many, many of them are restaurants that are experiences certainly. There was jubilation. Its extraordinary what we have available to us and how important our farmers have become. And he said to me one day, he said, You know, Thomas, the reason cooks cook is really to nurture people. And at that moment that really resonated with me and I said, Wow, I want to become a chef.. There werent really a lot of people who had aspirations of becoming a chef. Then the hard work of attracting investors began. He loved chefs. That was going to be something that was maybe decades away. Chef Keller led a team from the U.S. to its first-ever gold medal in theBocuse dOr, a prestigious biannual competition that is regarded as the Olympics of the culinary world. And it was fascinating because without realizing it, it inspired you to prepare the recipe. Keller's mother was a restaurateur who employed Thomas as help when her cook got sick. And that was a wonderful environment, very familiar, very small. 1. In 2004 he published "The Bouchon Cookbook," although he gives most of the credit to Bouchon chef Jeffrey Cerciello. So I had a little bit of savings. Thomas Keller: In 1992 I visited the Napa Valley from Los Angeles. Kon Tiki, things like that. The recipe called for a double boiler. The former French Laundry Chef de Cuisine Timothy Hollingsworth won the Bocuse d'Or USA semi-finals in 2008, and represented the U.S. in the world finals in January 2009 under Keller's supervision where he placed 6th, equaling the best performance of the U.S. in the contest to date. Rakel was in an area called Hudson Square in Manhattan, not too far from SoHo, not too far from the Village, but an area which was unheard of, and so we found a space there. Keller took a $5,000 cash advance on his credit card to retain an attorney who helped him structure a private placement offering. So hes tasked with many different things and having to juggle many different things. Now Ive got this rabbit thats got a broken leg, and Ive got to kill it and dress it. Again, we dont know what to expect. And of course Bill Wilkinson was very influential in the hotel world because he opened the first boutique hotel in our country, which was Campton Place in San Francisco. Once again, things got off to a good start, and Keller enjoyed making friends with colleagues in the West Coast restaurant scene. You started to see the little sparks here and there of interest in not just cuisine but in those who produced it. Because cooking wasnt really something that was popular at the time that I became interested. So when they were divorced, that was her path. You have received the highest rating in Michelin, three stars. And I was just It was emotional. Keller spent the next three summers at La Rive in Catskill, where he learned to source produce locally, growing many of his own vegetables, and even trying to kill and dress small game, an experience that gave him greater respect for those who produce the food we eat. You had to sweep the floor at these specific times. And he flew in from Paris with four other executives from Michelin and they had dinner at The French Laundry. Thomas Keller stands in front of the original exterior wall of the French Laundry in Yountville. And in San Francisco we had Herb Caen. I mean were the mothership, were the foundation of Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and certainly the inspiration for Per Se. I enjoyed it. I didnt recognize it until much later in my career, but I realized it and I understand that was part of the foundation of why I became a good cook and ultimately was able to become a good chef. Of course it became one of those stories that, if it was today, it would have gone viral, but back in those days we didnt have what we have today. This was the area that was going to become the next advertising center of New York City. You just never know. And I was working for a chef who was a presence in and of himself. What college did you attend for that short while? We had a beautiful foie gras to start, and we had I forget the dessert. Testosterone is raging and youre with all these its a group. So he reached in the cage, pulls a rabbit out, both legs, has one of those little baseball clubs, knocks it on its head, pins the rabbit to the side of the barn, slits its throat, dresses the rabbit in about five minutes. Sixth place. Jan Birnbaum was the first. The next day in the Lyon newspaper, the headlines: Pauls Dream Realized: America Reaches the Podium., Thomas Keller: We got silver. I had already closed two restaurants. If you could be more efficient than the person next to you, then you could have more time to learn what you wanted to learn, to continue to grow and continue to evolve, continue to progress. And thats where youre there supporting. Thomas Keller: I wish I could say there were, but no. Hello, my name is You know, I have this idea of and Id like you to consider it. Paul Bocuse said it very well. In 1994, he set his heart on a converted laundry building in Yountville, in the heart of Californias Napa Valley wine country. What the Marines say so much about is that discipline, is that commitment to what youre doing, and more important, the commitment to each other. We would have been on a flight so we would have missed the phone call. I should have read that before. I mean all these that are part of that repetition was what I learned as a dishwasher. What did you learn working at Taillevent? So of course the next week he showed up. Born in America in 1955, Thomas Keller is a restaurateur and cookbook author, but first and foremost, a chef. From there, he honed his skills at the heart of Thomas Keller's Restaurant Group, rising from a sous chef at Per Se to the executive pastry chef at both Per Se and Bouchon Bakery within a mere two years. Theres also the idea of a restaurant meal as a special event, rather than just getting something to eat. I have five siblings: four older brothers and one younger sister. Thomas Keller: In 1977 I met my mentor, Roland Henin, who really enlightened me about what cooks do: we nurture people. You know, where did the dish come from? Thomas Keller: Thank you. On the other hand, we look at it as a sports franchise as well. The failure of this restaurant did not dissuade you from haute cuisine. Theres a chef de partie in every different station thats in a kitchen. And theres no choices on the menu, so its a problem for us. So I thought, Well, when I open The French Laundry, well extend hours of operation and well offer choices in each category. Visitors to Napa brought word back to San Francisco, where favorable mention in the press drew interest from even farther away. Its an extraordinary event, extraordinary undertaking. [10], Prior to the opening of The French Laundry, Thomas Keller started a small olive oil company called EVO, Inc. in 1992, with his girlfriend of the time, to distribute Provenal-style olive oil and red wine vinegar. And I want you to know that were committed and dedicated to this honor, to this award, to this achievement, and well do our best to maintain the reputation of a three-star restaurant in America. And then we were with where are we going to celebrate? So at that time, cooking wasnt as recognized or as popular as it is today. And then going to France and in a five-and-a-half hour period producing those two proteins and serving it to 24 international judges. We can all cook. It was a very special treat to be invited to lunch with Thomas Keller, the world-renowned chef and owner of the French Laundry, Per Se, and many other award-winning restaurants. Its an externship, if you will. I learned at that time that persistence is really one of those keys to success. Thomas Keller: This was a time in my life when I started to embrace the idea of doing things myself outside of the kitchen, having a garden. In June 2019, Keller became the first U.S. inductee into The Master Chefs of France, the oldest savory chef association in the world. Its very much like going into somebodys home. Come over. And we went and it was an amazing moment to be able to walk into Taillevent, which had such a profound impact on my career, on my philosophy, on the culture that we have, on my skills, on everything in my life. Thomas Keller: Per Se. So now we increased our production from 40 items to 60 items. Not everything changed every day, but the menu changed every day. Keller began his career as a professional cook at the Palm Beach Yacht Club in 1974. We have to have an American president. I said okay. Had they not, I wouldnt be here today. Who was going to receive one star, two stars, three stars? The Keller empire expanded to Southern California with the 2009 opening of Bouchon and Bar Bouchon in Beverly Hills. They feel the responsibility to them. So the morning sous-chef is a very, very important position, somebody that typically has had great experience in the restaurant that hes working in. Expectations do get in the way. He has received countless accolades, including The Culinary Institute of Americas Chef of the Year Award and the James Beard Foundations Outstanding Chef and Outstanding Restaurateur Awards. There was no real technique. That year it won three International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) awards for Cookbook of the Year, Julia Child "First Cookbook" Award, and Design Award. He wanted America to have a better representation at the Bocuse dOr. In 2013 we raised to ninth. So that was a mistake I made that I never made again, and I learned from that. Ill dye it green. So, food color came out, we dyed the pasta green. Our second challenge was in 2011. I was very impatient, and I wanted to go out and explore. They didnt want steak Diane and pommes boulangre. They had enjoyed several years of modest success but were now looking to sell their business. Oysters and Pearls. Thomas Keller: Yeah. So the schools that we did have were relatively new. The new restaurant got off to a good start, but the stock market crash of 1987 cut deeply into their business. When Keller returned to the United States, he was ready to take on the world, but the world still had a few bumps in store for him, including an economic . No reality TV shows. Start with your all-time favorite recipe from your favorite cookbook. Favorite Restaurant Restaurant Experts' Poll, Outstanding Wine Service Award, James Beard Foundation, 2001, Outstanding Service Award, James Beard Foundation, 2003. And of course, what does the rabbit do? Living It Is Harder. And that became my inspiration every morning, because I had a dream to buy The French Laundry. What It Takes is an audio podcast produced by the American Academy of Achievement featuring intimate, revealing conversations with influential leaders in the diverse fields of endeavor: public service, science and exploration, sports, technology, business, arts and humanities, and justice. I dont know, whatever. When you won your first three Michelin stars, you celebrated at Taillevent in Paris. Not everybody knows it like that. Not just in the culinary profession, not just in the hospitality profession, but in anything. Theres two ways of looking at it, and I look at it both ways. Thomas Keller: We did. He liked that. Youll find a job. Of course I didnt have any resources whatsoever. It was poorly lit, and I had to arrive at work the next morning in the kitchen downstairs at 5:30 and they would show me what to do. Chef Keller led a team from the U.S. to its first-ever gold medal in the Bocuse d'Or, a prestigious biannual competition that is regarded as the Olympics of the culinary world. We respond to that by notching up our game. So its not just we relate to chef as somebody thats only in the kitchen, but remember, its chef de cuisine, chef of the kitchen, chef of the electricians, chef of the plumbers. In 1997, The New York Times restaurant critic Ruth Reichl called The French Laundry the most exciting place to eat in the United States. And kitchens are run in that way because its all command response. And you know, waste became a really important part of that learning experience, making sure that you know what? Thomas Keller: Herb Caen was a great writer. What happens? I had left Checkers. I understood it. Many times the advice was, Well just go. I learned how to share with them. If Im going to raise money from a lot of different people so it doesnt impact if Im not successful, its not going to impact their lives. So that was the process with the private placement business plan. Thomas Keller: There was one other a little less-known chef, who also inspired me and I think a lot of my colleagues, and that was Jean-Louis Palladin. Keller started out young in the field of cooking and culinary skills - in fact, his love for cooking surfaced when he once worked as a chef at his mother's restaurant in Florida. I mean youre in Paris. One last question. They believed in me. Prove that you can by acting on it and youll be successful. If you kept after it year after year after year, that dish evolved into something else. Were you primarily raised by your mother? Had I known everything that I was going to have to do over the course of the next 18 months, I would have given up right away. My oldest brother was here at the same time. So there were five of them. In 1999, Thomas Keller published The French Laundry Cookbook, which he considers his definitive book on cuisine. We invite those from our veterans home here in Yountville down to experience a meal around a table in a familiar place with food that is nourishing in every way. We just received three stars. It was like it was it just shocked us all. And to keep herself busy, and of course to supply some income for the family, she worked in restaurants. The latest restaurant, "ad hoc", opened in September 2006 in Yountville with a different fixed price comfort food dinner served family style every night. It was part of our culture, part of our philosophy, part of the philosophy that we had embraced from Don and Sally Schmitt. So I went to Bobs office with this idea of The French Laundry and hoping that he would be my attorney. Was it a restaurant that was breaking new ground? So I gave them some and I took some. Its like, Wow, I can choose any one of these pillows. But which one really is the best? I think the single most important thing you can do the single most important decision you make when youre making a reservation to a restaurant is not what restaurant youre going to, but who youre going with. Im not sure which one. The morel mushrooms, everything was just right, and I didnt appreciate it. I went to work at another restaurant in New York called Raphael, and this was theres a lot of Rs in my restaurant history. So, we have a sous-chef thats responsible for the meats and the garde manger. Otherwise it wasnt going to be good. Everybody read Herb Caen whether you liked food or not. He wrote his social column every day. Thomas Keller grew up in the restaurant business, in Palm Beach, Florida, working his way up from dishwasher to cook. AllRightsReserved. Friends urged him to try his hand on the West Coast, and he accepted an offer to become executive chef of the dining facilities at the Los Angeles hotel Checkers. And we thought, Wow, theres 2,000 people there every night. To get by, he started a small business, EVO, importing Italian olive oil. You have chef plumbers. I caught my breath and I said of course I thanked him very much and I said, One of the things that I want to assure you of is, again, its great to achieve this recognition, but now its our responsibility to make sure that the guests that come to our restaurant have that experience. You learn a lot from your mistakes. You have received the high There was a pause. The demographics were very important in that process, which we just totally threw out the window, or we just miscalculated. It certainly is very gratifying to see the interest now. Cooking and food preparation are applied sciences, and chefs understand them fully to succeed at their job. He took advantage of the traditionalstagiare system in which unpaid apprentices, called stages in English, learn the skills of the classic French kitchen one by one. A lot of other people might have said, Maybe I was too ambitious.. He was a great storyteller. And certainly receiving the Legion of Honor from President Sarkozy was beyond anything I could ever dream of. That was at the beginning of that relationship with Serge Raoul. The important thing, he said, is to make sure to give to young chefs the right things, the right mentoring because "if we're not truly working to raise the standards of our profession, then we're not really doing our job. But each day, waking up each day finding some success kept me motivated to the next day. And then the second half of the book were recipes, but not recipes like we recognize today. So I was a little further ahead than some of the other stagiaires that were there who were much younger than I, who were more worried about how to make a veal stock or how to turn a vegetable or different things that are basic that I had already learned. Did your mother or father support your culinary ambitions? And of course then to finish the meal was the famous marquise au chocolat, the chocolate marquise with pistachio sauce, something that I made almost every night during my time at Taillevent. It does. Well offer a four-course menu and a five-course menu. So we started out with a menu that had up to seven or eight choices in each category. So I passed by out of curiosity. And I arrived at the front door and a large matronly woman met me and she was very harsh, and she took me up to my room, which was this small cubicle with a window, but the window was covered with dust, which I thought was dust. So you can see there was a wide range of investment. As a consultant for All-Clad Metalcrafters, Keller advised on the creation of the All-Clad Copper Core Bocuse DOr Cookware. He migrated towards cooking much earlier than I did. In time, you and The French Laundry got your three stars from Michelin too. So when I got there, I had a good foundation of technique, a good understanding of classic cuisine, certainly the understanding of the vocabulary in a French kitchen. Another great milestone for you was the Legion dHonneur. That was something that was fascinating. Under Henin's study, Keller learned the fundamentals of classical French cooking. Everybody was doing casual dining. He's the role model, the icon".