It has the switch at the bottom to turn on along with the built in timer. Its that time of season to close the pool, I am probably going to close the pool and worry about the tripping breaker next year. Im having a problem with my super pump. Thats good such frozen motors are common in the spring. This could drain the pool down to the skimmer, or possibly much lower in some cases, so keep a close eye on any leak and look for signs of worsening. I first thought it might be the motor capacitor, new cap, problem still the same. it runs about 30 minutes and trips the breaker. A leaking shaft seal or drain plug could also drain the pump after some time. I hooked everything up, and Im getting a lot of air returning into the pool. Running very smoothly and pumping very hard. Fingers crossed it is not that! Took out filters and it pumps perfect. I hope new filters fix the problem!!! After 15-20 minutes, after cooling, the switch will close again, and the motor should restart. It overheated very badly, even burning the hayward sticker off the pump itself maybe a month ago. I checked the breaker and plug connection and they were fine. If you suspect your breaker has broken, call a certified electrician to further diagnose the problem. Start here Step 1: Select your pool type. Is it rigid PVC or flexible pipe? I have an Ecostar That has developed a pinhole spray leak at the top of where the pump housing oring sits between the pump and motor. By looking at the return valve, you should be able to see if it is squarely closing off the pool return pipes. Hi again, I dont have a shaft seal replacement video, but there are many on youtube. In the meantime, could you send me a link for the capacitor that I need? If it does make a hum or buzz sound, it could be a bad capacitor, the black cylinder at 9 oclock, in the rear of the motor. It looks like its coming from in between the motor and pump.Am I correct in thinking I need a new seal plate kit? . Hi Dave..your honest opinion please..new 14000gal gunite pool with hayward sp3400vsp pump September 2014,ran a month winterized and ran fine for 3 years, when company came to open up the pool in 2017,pump stuck,installed new 3400@ $1200. Ray1davis@comcast .net. The hot side goes into the timer's N0-3 and common into com-1. While you have the nest assy out of the tank, after hosing it off, soak it in a DE filter cleaner, to remove any scale and oils. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. Commonly appears on drain plugs, pump lids, pipe that screws into pump, or on incoming valves, like your Jandy. Check power at the switch or timer in the same way as the motor, at the other end of the wires running between the switch/timer and motor. Upon resetting an electrical short sound came from the pump motor tripping the breaker a second time. Second most common air leak on a Super Pump would be the incoming pipe fitting. Hi Kenny, not to my knowledge, you should see some display even without gas hookup. I have a Hayward pump and filter system for my outdoor water feature. I flipped on the breaker and the pump made this god awfully loud noise, immediately flipped it off. Any suggestions welcome. Hi Terri, when you connect the vacuum hose to the skimmer to start vacuuming, this is like increasing the length of the pipe from the pool to the pump, which makes the pump have to work harder, kind of like drinking through a very long straw. Open faced impellers need very large pliers, or a strap wrench, some have special tools to remove open brass impellers. Thanks. We have a Hayward Aqua Plus system. JUst installed new heyward pump . Hayward websites have been developed in compliance with standards for Internet Explorer 10 or later. Hi James, for a two speed motor, I would suggest the run capacitor, but not sure if the VS motor has one? Sometimes you can reposition it, or reglue it, or make it work for a little while longer, while you order the correct spider gasket to match your make/model of valve. The new one is doing the same thing. So I filled pump basket with water and it happened again. Second thought is are the pipes plumbed into the valve correct? I completely back washed and clean the system two times making sure the filter was put together properly and there were no holes in either the manifold or the filter grids. An excessive temperature difference between the two thermistors (5 F or more) or an out of bounds condition on both sensors (less than 10F or greater than 180F) will result in the error code. I changed my sand a few weeks and tested it and it worked fine. Hayward Super Pump, 1 Hp running on 240V, 3 yrs old Im really uncertain exactly how to even look for a solution to my problem. Sorry for the bad news. Pump cavitation produces a lower pitched gravely sound, caused by the pump being starved for water from closed valves or clogged lines or clogged impeller. I only rotated the one piece how can the screws not go right back in? Copyright 2022 In The Swim. Still same though nothing being sucked through basket and minor trickle back out into pool. "url": "https://x1.adis.ws/v1/media/graphics/i/lesl/its-logo-wide",
The Tristar VS would be a good choice and easy to plumb, since its the same pump. EC65 uses 6 lbs, and EC75 uses 9 lbs, but since DE is half as light as others a lb of DE powder is more than 2 cups of dry measure, its actually closer to 4 cups. I have a Hayward SP2610X15 Super Pump 1.5-HP Max-Rated Single-Speed Pool Pump, You should get it back same day or next day, in most cases. If flame is sensed with the gas valve off the control will go into lockout. Im very new to pools & pool maintenance in general. Then check the GFCI for loose wires. Thank you very much!! Even with the cells reverse polarity feature, the scale will still form on the plates. My pool guy went directly to saying I need a new one. When I finally turned it off again it would not come back on. The outlet the pump is plugged into, I suppose that is a 240V outlet. Why is this happening? Also will need to have clean pump basket and a clean pool filter, to ensure adequate flow rates. If your pump plugs-in to an outlet, it could also be a bad outlet, or bad wire or connection from breaker to outlet. It is a Hayward Super Pump 1.5 HP (model #SP2610X15). Works great minus the vacuum created is so great that getting the lid off of the basket is so great a breaker bar is needed to remove it. Recently replaced mortor and pump. Hi you are getting power inside the motor, on the terminal board? Hi Virgil, the time clock may not be set, or if you have a controller, the on/off program may not be setup, so it runs until it is set to turn off but is not set to turn back on again? Any suggestions? Well, you first need to inspect it, and if the parts are broken, replace them. My Hayward pump II LX 1.5 horsepower. But, you probably just need a $15 shaft seal, which is not overly difficult to replace. We had this issue with our older Hayward pump near the end of its life, but it would throw the breaker every time we tried to start the pump near the end of the summer last year. The problem lies, where the power dies could be the breaker, time clock, outlet or at the terminal board. It could be dead. The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow. The Pool is a Roman 23 in ground. Hi Rob, I think its a one-year warranty? I noticed the on/off switch seemed loose and when I took of the end case, the male disconnect to the switch was burned out. Old broken wires inside of the conduit could be the problem. If it is still making chlorine and no real faults are flashing on the control, I wouldnt be too worried about it. I also noticed that the repaired motor Hi Tom, there is an o-ring that seals up the tank flange to the valve flange, its usually on the valve, when you remove the valve, might need replacement and/or a good cleaning and lubing. Hi, we just installed a new AquaRite unit and it has been running for 48 hrs The salt level is 3100 ppm (pool store also confirmed and tested the water, no issues detected with the water). I dont see any leaks n pressure seems little bit higher than normal. With the pump off, remove the basket and reach your hand back into the eye of the impeller. If the blower prover switch opens unexpectedly during operation the control will shut down and attempt to re-light. If your pump is made of plastic, it must be the bearings, failing so hard that it is causing the motor to overheat. Salt Chlorinator Problems - Repair or Replace? - InTheSwim Pool Blog I purchased a hayward powerflo matrix 1.5 pump and Proseries 21 Filter a week and a half ago. Our pump wont start at all after opening the pool. You can also turn off the pump at the breaker which provides power to the timer. Dont know how to fix this. We have a Hayward ultra pro lx series pump for our above ground pool. Error codes show up on the digital screen of the H-Series H150, H200, H250, H300, H350, and H400 gas models. Shouldnt be having a problem so soon, no but it can happen, but more likely to not be the shaft seal, but the exit pipe, or a leak around the impeller housing, check the bolts around the pump, to be sure they are tight. We are getting a reading o the remote stating chlorinator is turned off High Temperature. For the clamp band, yes the washer with the slightly smaller hole I.D. Could also be a loose high speed wire from the switch. Hayward Blue Essense-20 | Trouble Free Pool Hi Jim, yes it could be leaking, around the stem that sticks up thru the valve body and attaches to the handle. Thoughts? I recently noticed what appears to be a shaft seal leak. I would also check all the wire connections (power off) to be sure they are tight, on the breaker and on the time clock, and also inspect for insect infestation, or lizards, mice, etc. I also made sure that the board was changed from T9 to T3 cell. The fact that it runs all day fine with a HD power cord attached and plugged in, makes me think its not a motor issue. Is this a new or older installation? Just got it a couple of weeks ago. I backflushed the filter and pump would loose almost all water in basket. You can either take the motor to an electric motor repair shop for rebuilding (new seals/bearings), or buy a new motor, or buy a new pump. Sean, Hi Sean, no worries. Also check that the wires on the front, from breaker and to pump, are tightly secured, and no burn marks. After just a few minutes the flow slows down to almost nothing. Are all connections tight? Any suggestions what it could be. What seems to be the problem. I just purchased a pool home that is utilizing a Hayward Northstar SP4020NS I have noticed that when the pump shuts off water briefly blows out of the strainer cover, like a pressure release. The only thing I can think of now is a bad breaker box which is outside adjacent to the pump, it is 20 years old. If you have power coming into the motor, but no pump noise, check (Power off) that wire connections are tight, and inspect the wire for breaks or damage. If you have found a burnt spot or something broken on the circuit board, that is a likely power killing area. I have perhaps a really basic question I just cannot get one side of my salt cell to seal with the union. Zeolite Market Share In 2022 | Top Players [ Shanghai Hengye, Zeotech Corp, Blue Pacific Minerals (BPM), UOP (Honeywell) ] In-Depth Analysis, Forecast to 2027 with Top Countries Data | We would like to show you a description here but the site wont allow us. Can you manually get it to rev-up on a higher speed? The AquaTrol is an above ground pool salt chlorine generator that can chlorinate a pool up to 18,000 gallons. Filter runs fine at first, but then eventually loses its umph and then the return becomes minimal. IF not, you may remove the motor end cap (with power off) and see that the wires are connected firmly. 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It leaks where the seal plate connects to the pump/strainer housing. We even tried siphoning with a hose and it dont want to work either. You can also contact Hayward Technical Service for help directly at (908) 355-7995. If thats not the problem, then it could be that you replaced the motor with a full rated motor, but the impeller (and old motor) was an uprated motor, or vice-versa.
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